Since its inception in 1969, Comme des Garçons has been a revolutionary force in the fashion industry, challenging conventional notions of design, beauty, and retail. Founded by the visionary Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo, the brand has not only redefined clothing but has also reimagined the very concept of what a fashion store can be. The evolution of Comme des Garçons stores around the world is a fascinating journey that mirrors the brand's innovative approach to design and its growing global influence. From humble beginnings in Tokyo to architectural marvels in fashion capitals worldwide, Comme des Garçons stores have become destinations in their own right, offering immersive experiences that go far beyond traditional retail. In this article, we'll explore the evolution of Comme des Garçons stores, tracing their development from the early days in Japan to their current status as global fashion landmarks.
Tokyo in the 1970s:
The story of Comme des Garçons stores begins in Tokyo in the early 1970s. After founding her brand in 1969, Rei Kawakubo opened her first store in Tokyo's Minami-Aoyama district in 1975. This early incarnation was a far cry from the architectural marvels we associate with the brand today. The store was small and relatively simple, reflecting the brand's still-developing identity and Kawakubo's emerging design philosophy. However, even in these early days, the store stood out for its unconventional approach to display and merchandising. Rather than following the standard practice of cramming as much product as possible into the space, Kawakubo opted for a more minimalist approach, allowing individual pieces to stand out and speak for themselves. This early store also set the tone for what would become a hallmark of comme des garcons retail spaces: a focus on creating an environment that complemented and enhanced the clothing, rather than simply serving as a backdrop. The store's design was stark and industrial, with bare walls and simple, utilitarian fixtures. This aesthetic was a radical departure from the opulent boutiques that dominated high-end fashion retail at the time, and it perfectly complemented Kawakubo's avant-garde designs. As Comme des Garçons gained recognition in Japan throughout the 1970s, this original store became a pilgrimage site for fashion-forward Japanese consumers, setting the stage for the brand's future expansion.
Paris in the 1980s:
The 1980s marked a significant turning point for Comme des Garçons as the brand began to gain international recognition. In 1981, Kawakubo presented her first fashion show in Paris, causing a sensation with her unconventional designs. This pivotal moment led to the opening of the first Comme des Garçons store outside of Japan, in Paris, in 1982. The Paris store, located in the heart of the city's fashion district, represented a new chapter in the evolution of Comme des Garçons retail spaces. While it maintained the minimalist aesthetic established in Tokyo, the Paris store was larger and more ambitious in its design. The space was characterized by its stark white walls, concrete floors, and industrial-inspired fixtures, creating a gallery-like atmosphere that allowed the clothing to take center stage. This store also introduced what would become another signature element of Comme des Garçons retail design: the concept of the store as an ever-changing installation. Kawakubo and her team would regularly reconfigure the space, moving walls, changing layouts, and creating new display concepts. This approach ensured that each visit to the store offered a new experience, encouraging customers to engage with the space and the clothing in different ways. The success of the Paris store paved the way for further international expansion, with Comme des Garçons opening stores in New York and Hong Kong later in the 1980s. Each of these new locations built upon the design principles established in Tokyo and Paris while also incorporating elements that reflected their local contexts.
The 1990s:
As Comme des Garçons continued to grow in the 1990s, so did the ambition of its retail spaces. This decade saw the brand collaborating with renowned architects to create stores that were truly extraordinary. One of the most notable examples is the Comme des Garçons store in Kyoto, Japan, which opened in 1997. Designed by Takao Kawasaki, the store is housed in a converted traditional Japanese machiya townhouse. The project beautifully blends traditional Japanese architecture with contemporary design elements, creating a space that feels both timeless and cutting-edge. The Kyoto store exemplifies Comme des Garçons' ability to respect and reinterpret cultural heritage, a theme that would continue to influence the brand's retail design in the years to come. Another significant development in the 1990s was the introduction of the Comme des Garçons "guerrilla stores" concept. These temporary retail spaces, often set up in unexpected locations or underutilized buildings, were designed to last for only a year or less. The guerrilla stores allowed Comme des Garçons to experiment with new retail concepts and to bring its unique aesthetic to cities that might not have supported a permanent store. This innovative approach to retail prefigured the pop-up store trend that would become widespread in the fashion industry in the following decades. The 1990s also saw the expansion of Comme des Garçons' retail presence in existing markets. In New York, for example, the brand opened a larger store in Chelsea in 1999. Housed in a former parking garage, this store exemplified the brand's ability to transform industrial spaces into fashion destinations. The raw, unfinished aesthetic of the space perfectly complemented Kawakubo's deconstructed designs, creating a cohesive environment that blurred the lines between fashion, art, and architecture.
Dover Street Market and Global Expansion:
The early 2000s marked another pivotal moment in the evolution of cdg hoodie stores with the introduction of Dover Street Market. Launched in London in 2004, Dover Street Market was conceived by Rei Kawakubo and her husband Adrian Joffe as a multi-brand retail concept that would push the boundaries of traditional department stores. The original Dover Street Market in London's Mayfair district was housed in a Georgian townhouse that had been transformed into a six-floor fashion emporium. Each floor featured a different mix of brands and designers, all curated by Kawakubo and her team. The space was designed to be in constant flux, with regular "tachiagari" (which translates to "beginning" or "start" in Japanese) events where the entire store would be reconfigured and redesigned. Dover Street Market represented a new evolution in Comme des Garçons' retail philosophy. While it maintained the brand's commitment to innovative design and presentation, it also introduced a more collaborative approach, bringing together different designers and artists under one roof. This concept proved hugely successful, leading to the opening of additional Dover Street Market locations in Tokyo (2006), New York (2013), Singapore (2017), and Los Angeles (2018). Each of these stores maintained the core principles established in London while also incorporating unique elements that reflected their local contexts. The 2000s also saw continued expansion of standalone Comme des Garçons stores around the world. Notable openings included the flagship store in Seoul, South Korea, which features a striking perforated metal facade designed by Kawakubo herself. This period also saw the brand expanding its presence in emerging markets, with new stores opening in cities like Beijing and Dubai. These stores often served as introductions to the brand for new audiences, blending Comme des Garçons' avant-garde aesthetic with elements that would resonate with local consumers.
The 2010s and Beyond:
As we moved into the 2010s and beyond, Comme des Garçons stores continued to evolve, reflecting changing consumer behaviors and technological advancements. While the brand has always prioritized the physical retail experience, it has also embraced digital integration in its stores. This has included the introduction of interactive displays, digital lookbooks, and other tech-enabled features that enhance the in-store experience while maintaining the brand's distinctive aesthetic. One of the most significant developments in recent years has been the increasing focus on sustainability in retail design. Comme des Garçons has long been known for its efficient use of space and materials in its stores, but recent projects have taken this commitment even further. For example, the Dover Street Market in Los Angeles, which opened in 2018, features a number of sustainable design elements, including the use of recycled materials and energy-efficient lighting systems. The brand has also continued to push the boundaries of retail design with projects like the Comme des Garçons "Pocket" store concept. These small-format stores, often no larger than a typical bedroom, showcase a curated selection of the brand's more accessible lines like Comme des Garçons Play. The Pocket stores represent a new direction in retail, offering a more intimate and focused shopping experience that contrasts with the grand scale of the Dover Street Market locations. In recent years, Comme des Garçons has also expanded its presence in the digital realm, launching e-commerce platforms for many of its lines. However, the brand has maintained its commitment to physical retail, recognizing the unique value of in-person experiences in fashion. The stores continue to serve as important touchpoints for the brand, allowing customers to fully immerse themselves in the Comme des Garçons universe.
The Future of Comme des Garçons Stores:
As we look to the future, it's clear that Comme des Garçons will continue to push the boundaries of retail design and experience. The brand's stores have always been more than just places to buy clothes; they are immersive environments that challenge our perceptions of fashion, art, and commerce. In an era where many brands are scaling back their physical retail presence, Comme des Garçons remains committed to creating extraordinary in-person experiences. One potential direction for future Comme des Garçons stores might be an increased focus on experiential elements. This could include more frequent collaborations with artists and designers to create in-store installations, or the integration of virtual and augmented reality technologies to create new ways of engaging with the brand's designs. We might also see a continued evolution of the Dover Street Market concept, perhaps expanding into new cities or exploring new formats that blur the lines between retail, gallery, and community space. Sustainability is likely to play an increasingly important role in the design and operation of future Comme des Garçons stores. This could involve everything from the use of eco-friendly materials in store construction to the implementation of circular economy principles in the retail experience. Given Rei Kawakubo's history of innovation, we might even see Comme des Garçons pioneering entirely new retail concepts that we can't yet imagine.